Saturday, December 13, 2008
The Advent season that wasn´t
I ask myself, "How do I usually know that Christmas is coming?"
Well, there is the snow falling in beautiful, fluffy flakes. I definitely missed that cue if it ever happened out here. I am getting used to sweating at all times, seeking out shade and breezes and fans automatically. The pattern of getting up early, staying up late, and sleeping the midday away makes more sense now than ever.
Then there is the cue of cheesy Christmas music on the radio, starting about a month before it should. That definitely didn´t happen here. Radio music is still reggaeton beats and the occasional romantic song from the 90´s or before. Christmas music here means "We wish you a merry Christmas." You think I´m kidding, but I am not.
There are the decorations of pine and red ribbon and glass ornaments. Nope, not here. On the rare occasions that I see them, it´s in big stores that are imitating the West. My favourite thing is the surprisingly popular icicle-style Christmas lights that dangle in strings. I love them in Winnipeg and I love them here.
Family traditions like baking and decorating cookies, setting up the tree, and celebrating at huge gatherings... All of those are obviously not going to happen here. I am on another continent than my family, so fair enough.
More than anything -- even more than the snow and lights that I love -- I miss the way the Church anticipates Christmas back in Canada. Here the concept of Advent is one that requires explaining. The Mennonite churches, at least, don´t do anything unusual. Sundays in December are like every other Sunday. The person preaching picks some passages to be read and preaches on a theme. But in my mind, this is supposed to be the Advent season. I miss lighting candles. I miss progressively decorating. I miss the familiar passages and the atmosphere rife with anticipation. I want to feel like Christmas is coming!!!
To be honest, I fear Christmas will be no big deal at all in the church here. I am happy to be rid of all the consumeristic baggage attached to Christmas in Canada... but not to be rid of Christmas entirely. It makes me really sad to be missing out on the benefit of a church-led Advent season.
It looks like this year, if I want Advent to be meaningful, it will be a do-it-myself event. Anybody got candles?
Friday, November 21, 2008
Danger -- Contents May Overheat!
I am learning SO MUCH STUFF.
First of all, of course, I am still working on my Spanish. On top of that, it seems that everyone I meet -- especially the older generation -- is keen to teach me Guaraní. This is OK with me, because I am eager to learn.
However, now that I am in Ciudad del Este, these languages are no longer enough. It is a given that I will pick up some Portuguese, as the majority of the merchants downtown are from Brazil and conduct business in Portuguese. If I want to go shopping, ever, some Portuguese would be a good idea. It´s not so much that it is necessary, as that it is considered rude not to make an effort.
There is also a lot of Arabic spoken in businesses downtown. Gulp. My host dad keeps saying phrases to me in Arabic at random times. It´s a game for me now, to guess at what he might be saying. I understand absolutely nothing, except for Allah and Isa. (If only his favourite expression were Insh´Allah.) As it is, I can´t imagine a language with a more beautiful sound, but I am making absolutely no effort to learn Arabic. My poor brain is doing all it reasonably can.
But don´t think for a moment that I am learning nothing but languages. No, no.
My students are eager to reciprocate by teaching me things, in exchange for English. Thus it happens that I had my first violin lesson this morning. I am pretty excited about the possibilities of this new endeavour.
Furthermore, one of my host dad´s nieces (so my cousin, I guess) is going to teach me to dance. Not the traditional Paraguayan style -- the contemporary stuff. That way I can dance along to the incessant Reggaeton beat that pumps through every neighbourhood. Those who know me well, know that I love to dance. It´s part of my embodied way of experiencing music, and joy.
Of course, I am learning to make traditional Paraguay foods and drinks. I love to cook, and my year would hardly be complete without some new favourite dishes. If I can serve a vegetarian, African-inspired dish in Paraguay, I better come home able to cook something Paraguayan!
Who knows what else I will pick up while I am here? I love to learn, so I am soaking it all up. That´s my plan for the whole year...
Unless my head explodes first.
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Disenchantment
(No, not with Jonathan.)
I have fallen out of love with a version of Paraguay I knew. That was the Paraguay that centers around Mennonite colonies in the Chaco; the Paraguay where the cities full of Spanish-speakers are more dangerous than they are exciting; the Paraguay in which White Mennonites only ever relate to Paraguayos and Indigenous people as workers on their farms.
Yep. I am definitely out of love.
The good news is that I am falling in love afresh... with a version of Paraguay that I like much better.
Living with a Paraguayo family for a month has given me new eyes with which to see this place. I am learning to live as part of a warm, relationship-oriented culture. It is so person-affirming to greet absolutely everyone when you enter a conversation circle, with at least a handshake and a "¿Que tal?" if not with a hug and kisses. It makes sense to me that relationships should matter more than task efficiency. I like seeing that principle in practice here!
I am coming to value the traditional knowledge that is still passed on here, in ways that I think many older persons in Canada would envy. The elderly are revered as sources of knowledge and wisdom. Young people learn as matters of fact which remedios yuyos (remedial herbs) have which health benefits when added to the tereré water. Children work as apprentices with their parents outside of school hours, so they can make a living of their own eventually. This is especially important for those who do not complete high school or go on to university studies. Whether learning to cook or do laundry or chop wood or drive a tractor or brand cattle, children learn by doing, alongside their parents and grandparents.
I am growing to love the scenery, from the sunrises in the flat, dry Chaco, to the lushly green rolling hills and lake by Ciudad del Este. The blend of languages engages my attention and keeps me forever learning. (At present I am working on Spanish, Guaraní, Portuguese, and even Arabic. Imagine!) The people are curious and friendly. The red earth does not cease to fascinate me, and I am most curious as to what will happen when I start composting. Paraguayans live with gusto, and while the loud and repetitive reggaeton music sometimes gets to me, there is something irresistible about a place that vigorously celebrates everything from birthdays to soccer victories. I can hardly wait until Christmas -- apparently even the toddlers set off age-appropriate fireworks!!!
Now, more than ever, I get to spend one-on-one time with this culture I am coming to love. I am in Ciudad del Este, five hours away from the North Americans who came to Paraguay with me. When I resort to English words to explain myself, I am met with blank stares. Yep, this is the real deal -- like the potentially tough marriage that follows a wonderful period of dating.
I have an opportunity in this new setting to not only fall in love... but to choose to love. Pray that I may learn how to live that out.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Languages, languages...
That slogan graced the classroom of one of my high school French teachers. I always liked the poster -- it was easy for me to be smug since I already knew Low German, German, and English -- but only in Paraguay have I realized what a strange North American phenomenon monolingualism actually is.
Pretty much everyone here speaks at least two languages. For most of the population, that means Spanish and Guaraní. For the colony Mennonites, it means German and Plautdietsch (which may or may not be considered different languages -- I argue that they are) and Spanish. In addition to these, there are a considerable number of Asian languages spoken in parts of Paraguay; one prime example is the Japanese colonies in the eastern part of the country. In regions near the Brazilian border, of course, there are a lot of people who speak Portuguese. There seems to be a widespread desire for English-language training because of the economic opportunities that knowing English brings, and this is reflected in the public school curriculum.
There is so much to say about being surrounded by all this language that I hardly know where to begin.
Let me make the observation, first of all, that it is wonderful to be so well understood. In a number of the places that our group finds itself, there are people present who speak Spanish AND English AND German... If we find ourselves at a loss for words in Spanish, we can resort to explaining ourselves in another language and the conversation flows on virtually uninterrupted. Just today at lunch, I was conversing in Spanish at a table at CEMTA (the Mennonite seminary here -- a lot like CMU, except culturally modified). When the fact that I knew German was brought up, the conversation switched to German, except for one girl who understood perfectly but always spoke in Spanish. The conversation flowed like this with no difficulty for anyone! It´s wonderful.
The second thing I really want to say is that I love and am fascinated by the fact that, in Paraguayan culture, the indigenous language of Guaraní is absolutely pervasive. It seems so entirely normal here, that it makes me wonder why the notion of widely using an Aboriginal language seems so strange in Canada. To be honest, I am really starting to want to learn Guaraní. At the very least, I will collect a wide assortment of phrases and words that pepper the daily use of Spanish within families and among friends in Paraguay. Furthermore, I am beginning to think seriously about learning Cree when I get back to Canada.
We English teachers-to-be received a brief article the other day (check it out at http://www.mwc-cmm.org/en/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=186&Itemid=108) outlining the eight languages of translation at next year´s Mennonite World Conference assembly. The languages are as follows: Spanish, English, Guaraní, Enlhet, Nivaclé, German, French, and Portuguese. THREE of those are local indigenous languages!!! Perhaps the fact that I find this so exciting and unusual reflects my own country´s marginalization and neglect of our indigenous languages and cultures. I am rather under-exposed to this sort of thing. It is delightful for me to be in a place where being rooted in indigenous culture and language is not a matter of shame, but rather cause for pride.
Meeting youngsters who are fluent in two or more languages, young adults who are working on their fourth or fifth language, and older adults who are determined to learn English to complement their Spanish and Guaraní, is inspiring. The enthusiasm and language-learning efforts of the people here are humbling. Not only that, but their generous spirit makes it easy to want to join them in this quest for even greater communication ability. In theory, I suppose, my "joining in" is supposed to take the form of me teaching, and to some extent it will. But what I really want is to learn.
This hunger for learning, I think, is precisely the cure for the monolingualism found in many parts of North America. Hopefully, it is also the start of a cure for our underlying arrogance.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
In a Groove
I wake up early, because when it´s bright out my body just does that. I go sit out front with Maria (the house mother) and her husband Secundido or one of their daughters, and start the day with some mate.
Breakfast is around 8:00, followed by a family devotional time, and then the morning´s activities follow. Usually this is some form of Spanish lessons, learning about the culture, or visiting places in Asunción. High stress to-do lists are unheard of here, so far.
Lunch is the big meal of the day. Maria spends much of the morning preparing it, and it is invariably delicious.
After lunch, I check e-mail or read or journal for an hour, or else trade backrubs with Krista. Then, once my lunch has settled in my stomach, I crawl into bed for a two-hour or so nap. Whenever I happen to wake up is when I get up. It´s a beautiful thing.
There are always young people from the church stopping by here, so we chat it up and drink tereré, and sometimes head over to the church (super close) to play some soccer and volleyball. Supper is around 7:30 or 8:00, and then the evening is open for socializing or studying or whatever else until 10:30 or 11:00, at which time we generally go to bed.
Our days are not super-structured so far, and at times we North Americans feel like we are being lazy. The main demand on us right now is to learn Spanish, and that we are doing. It can be exhausting mental work some days! So instead of feeling guilty about not technically accomplishing much with my days, which would be a very North American thing to do, I am savouring these relaxed days.
I feel welcome here. I love the culture, which is laid-back and very relationship-oriented. Being lonely is impossible, especially since there is internet access in the house, so we can e-mail and Skype home freely. The people from this Mennonite church are super-friendly and inclusive, and that helps make this place feel like a home for me.
The heat may take some getting used to... but I think my body has found its happy place.
Friday, October 10, 2008
First Days in Asuncion!
The Paraguay team, myself included, has arrived safe and sound in Paraguay. Even our luggage made it here at the same time as us -- we were thrilled!
In an odd way, it is like a kind of homecoming for me to be back here. I was overwhelmed on the drive from the airport to this house, by the sense of familiarity, by the flood of positive memories from when I was in Asunción last, and by the feeling of being so lucky to get to be here and do this for ten months.
What is the "this" that I am doing, anyway? In case any of my readers is not sure, let me quickly explain. In preparation for Mennonite World Conference 2009, the Spanish-language Mennonite conference (CONEMPAR) has invited six North American young adults to come and teach English to people who will be volunteering at World Conference. This is one of the many ways they are preparing, together with the Indigneous and German-language Mennonites, to host World Conference in the most hospitable way possible.
For this first month, all six of us English teachers are in Asunción, learning Spanish and learning how to teach English. My host family consists of parents Maria and Secundido, and their daughters Laura, Diana, and Achi. Most of the group downtime so far happens here at this house, and the family is being super-hospitable. I am most grateful for their friendliness, concern, and generous spirit. They are doing everything possible to help us learn Spanish and to ease our anxieties about the coming year in whatever ways they can. One important aspect of this is giving us as much information as we want about the host families we will be living with later, how to use the bus system, the currency, safety issues in the neighbourhood, food and culture, etc. In some ways we felt really short of details coming here, so it is wonderful having Maria and Laura in particular tell us everything we want to know! North Americans, after all, thrive on information!!!
Relations between the Mennonite conferences that are based in different ethnicities can be a delicate subject here in Paraguay, and I was a little concerned about how my colony Mennonite heritage might affect the way I integrate here. However, for better or worse, the fact of my parents´ colony origin came up yesterday. It is a relief not to worry about how discreet to be about that anymore. I intend to make every effort to be fully a part of the Spanish-language churches here, but the fact remains that I am who I am, and furthermore that I would like to visit my relatives in the Chaco while I am here.
What else can I tell you all? There is so much to say. Yesterday morning started with some mate with my host mother and sister, and then we walked through the yard looking at the various plant: banana trees, guava (from which we harvested fruit), little tomatoes, and some interesting herbs and medicinal plants I´ve never seen before. Going inside, we made cocido as part of our breakfast preparations. You boil a liter of water in a kettle. Once it is nearly hot, put three heaping spoonfuls of yerba into a pot and add a little sugar -- maybe a teaspoon. Put that on the hot stove and swish it around occasionally, so it gets just a smidge burnt. After about a minute of this, add the boiling water. Let it boil for about three minutes, until it is nice and foamy (with green foam!). Then turn off the heat, adding a half cup or so of cold water to help the yerba settle on the bottom of the pot. Wait for several minutes until it is pretty settled. Then pour the drink through a fine strainer into a thermos to keep it hot. Pour some into a mug, adding milk and sugar, and enjoy! It is a bit like a very strong rooibos tea. I like it!
After breakfast (which involved homemade guava jam, which I love), Maria and I went out to the backyard to unearth some mandioca that was buried in the reddish sandy soil. My hands got all orange -- it was delightful! She prepared them for consumption at lunch, while Becca and Laura and I walked to the Supermercado España to get a few groceries. The living of day-to-day life is what makes a place for me, and so far I love living here.
A horse pulling some kind of cart clip-clops by around 5:30 in the morning outside my and Becca´s window. Motorcycles are a common mode of transportation, even for couples with a tiny baby. There are mangos growing in Craig and Krista´s front yard, and bananas in the yard of the church where Scott and Tyler are staying down the street. People visit us often, doing everything possible to make us feel welcome, and we do. We bust out the guampa and water all the time. I am trying to partake often, but not so often that my digestive system declares mutiny. That happened last time I was in Paraguay, and I would rather not repeat the experience. :)
My host mother just pulled me outside to look at some birds native to this area, eating bread in the yard. My understanding of "normal" -- normal trees, normal streets, normal social customs, normal food, normal sleep patterns, normal fauna, normal places to see cows -- is going to undergo a bit of a shift this year. And I love it! What an adventure is beginning here. Thank you for reading about it and in this way sharing these experiences with me. Thank you also for your support, from at home and abroad. It is good to know there is a network of people who are interested, who care, and who pray for me. Blessings to you all!
En amistad,
Dorotéa
Monday, September 29, 2008
Loving Winnipeg from Afar
Chicago: City of Churches
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Thea's Top Ten Bible Passages
The counter-cultural nature of Christ's message is perhaps best outlined here. Everyone who is trodden upon by society, who is rejected or dejected, is lifted up out of the dirt in this poetic passage. Jesus declares that it is the underdogs who will be truly blessed: who will be comforted, who will be shown mercy, and who will inherit the earth that they have cared for. The passage is both a reassurance to those who are suffering in the world, and a reminder to those who live in material and social comfort that the easy life is not the one of greatest blessing. It is a challenge to our notions of what makes a good life.
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Thinking about Community

Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Hymn Sing!


Friday, September 12, 2008
Fun Times Playing Duck-Duck-Goose
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
First days in Chicago
So far, I love Chicago! Which has a lot to do with how much it reminds me of Winnipeg, but let me back up a few steps before I say too much about that.
I left Winnipeg on Saturday morning (September 6th). Walking out of the house was one of the hardest things about leaving -- I could hardly tear myself away. I actually had to walk from room to room saying goodbye to the physical space. Is that strange? I'd been goodbyeing for just over two weeks already, starting with co-workers and then various friends and family members. The most tears were reserved for the last 24 hours, though.
The next morning, I had to say goodbye to my mom, my brother, and my boyfriend, Jon. More tears -- many more! But it was wonderful to know that I have so many people in my life worth missing while I am away. And when I finally
What followed was a two-day trip through a few states, stopping for meals and to stretch our legs, on our way to Chicago. The scenery was lovely and I quite enjoyed the trip itself. I just refused to think about our destination and what would happen once we got there.
Until we actually drove into Chicago.
There is far more that I want to say about this place, and about Faith House and the 15 other young people who presently live there with me. That will have to wait for now. Suffice it to say that I am having an amazing experience thus far and look forward to keeping you all posted!
Love,
Thea